No Olive Oyl, but plenty of spice

Love that chicken from Popeye's, the establishment that claims to be "America's Fried Chicken Champ—The Spicy Taste That Can't be Beat"? At first it seems abhorrent to look beyond firmly entrenched Yale institutions like the Yankee Doodle's grilled doughnut for other sources of high cholesterol to clog your young and uncorrupted arteries. Likewise, as Popeye's lies on the frontier of our campus security bubble, it seems that many bypass this international establishment simply to avoid its unsettling location. With a decor more reminiscent of Sing Sing than Sardi's, and offering "delicacies" that are clearly not for the sensitive gourmand, Popeye's has still become the world's second-largest quick-service chicken chain with their New Orleans style fowl and buttermilk biscuits. Here you can find true value in the New Haven culinary scene.

CAYTE PUSHKAREVA/YH Give me a chicken. A whole one.

One should not expect the divinely inspired gastronomic creations of Paris within a soaked-through Popeye's paper bag. However, our New Haven establishment accomplishes what it sets out to do—it provides cheap yet gratifying food. While I don't support the affirmative action policy toward chicken parts, which prevents one from monopolizing the prime pieces within an order, for only $20 an entire suite can easily placate late night stomach pangs with any one of Popeye's combination meals.

The menu is extensive and hearty, offering a quality that easily surpasses other high-end, renegade fast food competitors like White Castle, Taco Bell, and Arby's. From Louisiana Lobster to Cajun popcorn shrimp, heaps of creamy mashed potatoes to gravy so rich it will make you cry, spicy fried chicken to the biscuits that even the company admits have driven their 700 franchises' success, Popeye's will easily satisfy those who are not weak of heart. Of course the chicken is high in calories, but it is cooked to perfection, spicy and crunchy on the outside, tender and flavorful within. The biscuits are moist and flaky, far superior to the stale lumps of coal served on any given night in a residential college dining hall. Popeye's, like any other fast food, should not be consumed on a regular basis, but if you feel like treating yourself to tasty, affordable food, its fare deserves a first time try.

Upon entering Popeye's, I simply could not avoid the chaos. Besides the few strange characters scattered throughout the restaurant—clearly there for warmth over food—it seemed everyone was taking their massive orders to go, as patron after patron left with enough bags to be a New York socialite on Fifth Avenue. The tables were filthy, the building run-down, and the huge piles of pre-cooked chicken that seemed to grow higher and higher sent shivers down my spine in disgust. Fast food competitors have spent millions of dollars in advertising and self-improvement over the last decade in an effort to erase the stigma created through poor quality and a vile décor. It is clear, though, that the Midas touch has yet to hit the broken down façade, condemnable seating area, lackluster employees, and grotesque bathroom of this New Haven franchise. I had planned to take in the full Popeye's experience, but it is clear that if you ever want to return, you must grab the chicken and run. As friends warned me of last year's shooting at Popeye's, I see that the takeout option provides the best of both worlds: great food and the comfort, cleanliness, and security of your own room.

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