More entrees than you'll find in a New York diner

JULIA TIERNAN/YH Calzones and ziti that YUDH can only dream of.

For just over four years, Caffe Bravo has been serving delicious and surprisingly affordable Italian specialties at its 794 Orange St. location. It's a gourmet restaurant with a casual neighborhood atmosphere--an atmosphere that owner John DiPaola, a 30-year resident of the area, is dedicated to maintaining.

The sense of community that makes the area--and the restaurant itself--so special is obvious from a quick survey of the customers who flock to Caffe Bravo. In one evening, the diners included a kids' soccer team, a group of professionals, and a number of families.

Caffe Bravo's décor has a distinctly Italian flavor. Large glass cases display pizzas, lasagnas, and paninis; while pies, cakes, and cannolis are shown next to a large assortment of ice creams. DiPaola has made good use of the restaurant's somewhat limited seating space. In addition to the eight tables on the main floor, customers can choose to eat at window-side counters. The waitstaff is friendly and entertaining, making first-time visitors feel like regulars.

Caffe Bravo's greatest strength lies in the variety and extent of its menu, which would be impressive in a restaurant three times its size. It boasts over 70 regularly offered entrees and a number of daily appetizer and entree specials. Pizzas are available in three sizes with 20 topping choices, and with fresh vegetable-laden vegetarian entrees, Bravo's menu includes something for everyone.

The antipasti options, while typical of an Italian restaurant, are set apart from the average fare by their superior quality. The mozzarella alla caprese is a highlight, with slices of fresh tomatoes, basil leaves, and mozzarella cheese lightly seasoned with olive oil, salt, pepper, and oregano. The calamari fritti includes both slices and strips of squid with marinara dipping sauce.

Unlike most oil-drowned garlic bread, Bravo's is crunchy, with only a hint of butter. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the bruschetta, the celery, onion, olive, and tomato topping of which is overshadowed by too much olive oil. Fresh salads are complimentary with each meal, and a number of entree salads are also available.

Thin crust with the taste of good Italian bread, mild marinara sauce, and fresh flavorful toppings make the stuffed, Sicilian-style, gourmet, and traditional-style pizzas simply terrific.

The eggplant and chicken parmigiano strombolis, meanwhile, provide a different twist on old favorites, with breaded chicken or eggplant, marinara sauce, and melted cheese wrapped in pizza dough.

The many regular pasta dishes and daily specials at Bravo range from basic to complex and unique. Traditional favorites such as ravioli penne alla marinara and gnocchi are well represented. And for the more adventurous diners, the penne all'arrabiata is a rare treat. Translated as "angry pasta," the al dente noodles with its spicy tomato sauce of red chili flakes, garlic, parmesan, and Italian bacon, are tempered by the large serving of complimentary bread.

The desserts are the perfect complement to an excellent meal. Every day, fresh pastries are made on-site from traditional Italian recipes. In addition to the many flavors of gelato (Italian ice cream), Ben and Jerry's, and Starbucks ice cream, Bravo offers a number of mouthwatering pies and cakes. The chocolate monster pie, for example, is sure to satisfy the most die-hard chocoholic. Many desserts also use fresh fruit. For the raspberry tart, slightly tangy raspberries are lightly sweetened, puréed to the consistency of thick jam and complemented by a sweet dough crust.

For those who need their daily dose of caffeine, Bravo has a small coffee bar on the premises which prepares a variety of espressos, cappuccinos, and flavored lattes. Along with their coffee, patrons can enjoy fresh muffins or biscotti.

For the quality and variety of food it offers, Caffe Bravo is a great bargain. Appetizers range from two to six dollars, while most are around four dollars. Entrees are priced from five dollars for sandwiches to $10 for elaborate pastas; most are around eight dollars. Desserts at Caffe Bravo are about three dollars.

With its affordable prices and delicious, high quality food, Caffe Bravo ensures gourmet dining in a comfortable, family-oriented atmosphere, and will leave you saying,"Encore!"

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