Slurping soup among second-hand storybooks

JULIA TIERNAN/YH Pouring over pages with a potato close at hand.

David Duca has had his hands full recently with two new babies. One, a daughter, was born this past weekend. The other, the Booktrader Cafe, his first business, made its debut on Wed., Oct. 21.

Encased in glass at the intersection of Chapel and York Streets, the Booktrader Cafe is a used bookstore and gourmet eatery. Although the building is loosely organized into separate halves, bookshelves border the walls of the dining area; it is not unusual for people to wander in and out, exploring. With mellow jazz on the sound system, the Booktrader Cafe has already attracted many regular visitors who enjoy the quiet, relaxed atmosphere. There is plenty of seating on the glass patio for patrons to eat, read, or work. The Booktrader Cafe specializes in soups and sandwiches, with an emphasis on fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Three soups are made fresh daily, and the selection changes frequently. Corn chowder, the Cafe's most popular soup, combines whole kernels of corn with large chunks of potato and slivers of onion in a thick chicken stock seasoned with black pepper. The black bean and spinach soup's chili-like consistency contrasts with the smooth texture of the spinach. Other options include ham and pinto bean soup and yellow squash soup seasoned with dill. Though satisfying on their own, the soups can also be ordered in combination with a stuffed potato or a sandwich for a more filling meal.

The three stuffed potato options are a great way to sample the chef's unique flavor combinations. Prepared fresh on order, the heat escaping from the just-sliced potatoes warms the toppings that accompany them. On the bacon and crumbled bleu cheese potato, the cheese melts just enough to hold all the ingredients together. Another potato choice pairs mild, melted slices of brie with sweet, roasted bell peppers. The most adventurous and popular potato combines strands of sauerkraut with smooth Gruyere cheese.

Despite its great soups and potatoes, the emphasis at the Cafe is on its unique sandwiches. Playing on the bookstore theme, each sandwich is named with a literary play on words. The insistence on homemade sandwiches made with fresh ingredients sets these sandwiches apart from run-of-the-mill lunch fare. Fresh breads are transported daily from a number of Manhattan bakeries. A variety of bagels is also available. Instead of relying on processed meats, the Cafe roasts its turkey and chicken on-site and uses only cuts from whole hams.

The Cafe's sandwiches share the adventurous gourmet combinations found in the soups and potatoes. Both available turkey sandwiches are quite popular, for good reason. The first turkey sandwich must be eaten with two hands; it's messy but worth it. A huge portion of homemade roasted turkey is layered with crunchy slices of cabbage slaw, both mixing with Russian dressing made from scratch that seeps through the spongy white bread and drips over the edges of the crust. The second turkey sandwich is also complemented by a great dressing. In this selection, homemade orange-cranberry chutney with large cranberry halves combines the best tastes of Thanksgiving on a French baguette. Chaucer's Chicken Salad Sandwich combines the Cafe's roasted chicken, seasoned with onions and spices in a mayonnaise base with mesclun greens and ripe tomatoes. For vegetarians, Vonnegut's Veggie with roasted vegetables, caramelized onions, and brie is a great option. Beef lovers have a number of options, including Beckett's Hot Brisket, served on an onion Portuguese roll, and the Jane Rare (recently named in a Cafe contest) roast beef sandwich, which is prepared with seasoned goat cheese, horseradish mayonnaise, and mesclun greens.

The Cafe also serves a variety of drinks and baked goods at its coffee bar. Two house blends, flavored coffees, espressos, lattés, and cappuccinos are all sold. Hot tea drinkers have 12 options to choose from. Refreshing fresh-brewed iced tea, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and lemonade round out the beverage menu. Homemade baked goods are made every day on the premises. Various kinds of muffins and scones are available, but the highlight is the chocolate chip cookie. Straight out of the oven, it is the perfect combination of gooey dark chocolate and chewy cookie.

Most of the Cafe's selections are made from scratch, but the prices are more in line with local fast food options. Soups are $2.50, two dollars when purchased with an accompanying sandwich or potato. Potatoes are about three dollars each, and sandwiches range from $5.25 to $5.75. Coffee and baked goods range from 75 cents to $2.50. Open during the week from 7:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and later on the weekends, the Booktrader Cafe is an ideal escape to a relaxed setting with great food at affordable prices.

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