Serving up a steaming bowl of multiculturalism

JULIA TIERNAN/YH The works of local arts complement the atmosphere of the Tibwin Grill.

By 8 p.m., the new restaurant fills up with groups of professionals, families, and college students. Luckily, the first floor wine bar boasts a 50 bottle selection and a spacious layout to accommodate a large crowd.

Local restaurateur Rick Elser, who also owns Richter's, devised the Tibwin Grill as a combination wine bar and American bistro. Across from the bar, guests can watch as food is prepared in the open kitchen. Jazz in the background, local art adorning the walls, and candles on each table enhance the dining room's mature ambience.

The Tibwin Grill specializes in wine from all over the world, and its menu
reflects a similar international flavor. The food strives to be distinctly American, while incorporating French and Asian
gourmet influences.

The meal begins with spongy slices of fresh French bread, followed by a selection of appetizers worth sampling. Each day, the chef creates a different risotto appetizer. The mushroom and caramelized onion risotto has a nice consistency and uses fresh mushrooms, but it could benefit from more seasoning. Mushroom lovers would be better suited trying the grilled portabello mushroom, served with Asian greens and a balsamic vinaigrette. The large bowl of creamy butternut squash soup retains the pure taste of this favorite fall vegetable. Both the soup and the risotto include a crunchy wafer of parmesan tuile.

The warm goat cheese salad is another great starter. The dish features mixed greens, walnuts, and a tangy beet vinaigrette, with the herbed goat cheese served on slices of crunchy crostini bread. Another notable choice is the shrimp cocktail, served lightly breaded with dipping sauce. Appetizers are large enough to share and could constitute a satisfying meal for light eaters.

With their unique ingredient combinations, entrées at Tibwin Grill reflect the restaurant's multicultural culinary roots. The restaurant artistically presents four types of meat and three fish dishes which are especially noteworthy. The pan-seared ahi tuna is stacked on top of a soba noodle pancake, surrounded by chunks of baby bok choy. The soba noodle pancake has a slightly gummy texture, but works well as a base for the rest of the dish. The otherwise mild tuna fish and the noodle pancake are complimented by a terrific, slightly spicy sesame ginger sauce. A tangy grain mustard sauce also spices up the grilled Atlantic salmon, which is served over wilted spinach. The salmon also comes with a potato spring roll, an interesting combination of smooth mashed potatoes with a crunchy fried crust.

In addition to the almost entirely vegetarian selection of appetizers, the Tibwin Grill offers vegetarians the cavatappi pasta entrée with plum tomatoes, roasted garlic, and spinach. For meat eaters, the house strip steak, served with red bliss potatoes, spiced onions, and carrots, is sure to please. The grilled double cut pork chop is the best choice for adventurous eating. A large portion of tender pork is served with a baked apple-parsnip compote and shoestring potatoes. The accompanying balsamic demi-glace tastes great with the apples and potatoes, as well as the pork.

Desserts at Tibwin Grill are the featured item of the meal, with nightly specials highlighting the selection. The crème brulée has a soft custard consistency and mild egg flavor, which contrasts with the sweet crunch of its caramel sugar coating. The excellent pumpkin ice cream seasoned with cinnamon is a distinctly autumn dessert. A chewy chocolate, pecan, and caramel cookie comes with each large bowl of ice cream. The excellent lemon tart combines the caramelized sugar crust of crème brulée with the tart custard of a lemon meringue pie. The somewhat sour tart is balanced by an sweet raspberry sauce.

While Tibwin Grill currently serves dinner seven nights a week from 5:30 to 10:30. and drinks until 11:30 p.m., the restaurant will be opening for weekday lunch and Sunday brunch in mid-November. The wine bar will also be staying open later on Fridays and Saturdays to accommodate anticipated weekend crowds.

The food at the Tibwin Grill is great, but it's not cheap—wine, an appetizer, and an entrée will cost you approximately $30 per person. The appetizers range from five to seven dollars, a great bargain for the large portions and fresh ingredients. Entrées are priced between $10 and $17 and all desserts are about six dollars.

But the price is well worth it. For gourmet food lovers, Tibwin Grill is a me addition to the aven restaurant scene.

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