New addition hits high note on Wooster St.

JULIA TIERNAN/YH Alto Basso tries a new approach to Italian cooking.

The atmosphere at Alto Basso is far different from that which dominated the dimly lit Delmonaco's, the former occupant of the coveted 232 Wooster Street address--and that's exactly how the owners want it.

Alfonso D'Onofrio and Chris Gentile bought Delmonaco's last November. In June, they opened a new Italian restaurant on the same site, with a renovated interior and an original menu. While Delmonaco's food, according to Gentile, "had gone from traditional to eclectic," the cuisine at Alto Basso promises to be "contemporary and innovative." The menu is a mix of Northern and Southern Italian influences, brought together in unique combinations.

The atmosphere at Alto Basso is warm and inviting. Unlike its predecessor, Alto Basso is brightly lit, with white stucco walls and hanging baskets of ferns. Arched windows between rooms and mirrors on the walls make the restaurant seem quite a bit larger than it actually is. The setting is pleasant, relaxed, and not too formal. The waitstaff is professional, well-versed in the compositions of each dish, and extremely helpful. The only negative aspect of the Alto Basso experience is the background music, which is too loud to be ignored and somewhat distracting during dinner conversations.

The appetizers at Alto Basso are not to be missed. Many are presented artistically, drizzled with bright sauces and accented with colorful vegetables and greens. The food itself is delicious, but not too filling. The lightly fried calamari fritti are mild enough for even the most squeamish diner. Vegetarians can enjoy portobello ai ferri, slices of warm portobello mushrooms set against cold sautéed bell peppers with balsamic vinaigrette. The carpaccio di manzo is a brave combination of mild, thinly sliced beef with tangy sweet and sour eggplant. The standout appetizer is the simple mozzarella della casa. Made fresh at the restaurant, the large portion of mozzarella compliments slices of ripe red and yellow tomatoes with a light pesto sauce. Unfortunately, the complimentary house salad is bitter and underwhelming in comparison to the salads that garnish certain appetizers.

Alto Basso's entrées are enjoyable, but not quite up to the standard set by the excellent appetizers. The basic marinara sauce has the pure flavor of fresh tomatoes, but is slightly overseasoned with black pepper. The capellini al pomodoro is a good choice for those looking for the most basic option of marinara and angel hair pasta. Alto Basso, however, is best at recipes that make use of fresh vegetables. In the orecchiette ai funghi, Roma tomatoes and a variety of wild mushrooms spice up an otherwise ordinary pasta dish. One of the rotating specials, risotto with vegetables, draws much of its flavor from yellow and red bell peppers. Another noteworthy entrée is the salmone con panzanella, a combination of sweet grilled salmon with salad greens, grilled onions, and roasted new potatoes. Reappearing in many entrées, Alto Basso's top-notch mozzarella blends well into a variety of dishes. The portions are enormous, guaranteeing leftovers to bring back home.

Be sure to save room for the desserts, which rival the appetizers in both appearance and taste. Most plates are decorated with patterns of melted chocolate and powdered sugar. The Italian favorite, tiramisu, is terrific and large enough for two. Layers of espresso-soaked ladyfingers contrast with the smooth cream filling in this layered dessert. Tartufo, another Italian favorite, is a unique treat for ice cream lovers. A layer of cherries separates chocolate and vanilla gelato, and the entire dessert is covered with a dark chocolate shell. For those looking for something lighter, the lemon ripieno is a fabulous lemon sorbet served in a hollowed lemon with whipped cream and strawberry sauce. For those who are not hungry enough for an entire meal, the great desserts alone are well worth the trip through downtown New Haven to Wooster Street.

Alto Basso is slightly expensive for students on a budget, but it is ideal for birthdays and other special events. Soups and salads are all around four dollars; appetizers range from six to eight dollars; and entrées are priced between 10 and 20 dollars. Those who want to save money can eat a reasonable amount by ordering only appetizers, or by pairing them with one of the entrée salads. The entire menu is also available for takeout.

Currently, Alto Basso's entrées are weak compared with their creative and mouthwatering appetizers and desserts. This could be remedied by creating in the entrées the diverse flavor combinations that make the rest of the meal so special. The owners of Alto Basso have tried to create a modern and inventive menu, a goal they are well on their way to achieving.

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