Whalley Avenue harbors a new Malaysian secret

JULIA TIERNAN/YH Who knew that Whalley Avenue was a mecca of Malaysian magnificence?

My mouth began watering as soon as I stepped inside of Gunung Tahan, a new Malaysian restaurant on Whalley Avenue. By the time the meal was over, every taste bud had been individually excited and satisfied--although my wallet was hurting.

Siew Lin Wong and Wai Fun Chow, a married couple from Malaysia, opened Gunung Tahan last January. Though a 10- minute drive from campus, I can assure you that a trip to Gunung Tahan is an excursion for which your palate will give effusive thanks. "I can't pronounce it, but I sure can eat it," Anna Nordberg, SY '01, said.

Upon entering Gunung Tahan, one is immediately confronted by a gambung, a large Malaysian musical instrument made of bamboo that resembles a xylophone. A musical theme pervades the dining room: tables are divided by several angklungs, another Malaysian instrument that looks like a massive set of bamboo wind-chimes. This charming interior is matched by the service from an amiable and well-informed waitstaff who patiently explain the contents and flavors of each dish.

The menu has an enticing array of appetizers, each with a unique combination of textures and tastes, of which only the standard chicken satay is disappointing. The dipping sauce, however, is delightful: a marriage of peanuts, peanut butter, and java sugar. One of the best appetizers is the lembu soto, beef broth with whispers of cinnamon and ginger as well as sliced beef, diced okra, carrot, and fingered citron (Malaysian melon). And I forgave the satay as soon as my teeth descended into the roti canai, pan-fried delicate and chewy bread served with a curry sauce unlike any I have experienced.

With my appetite gently aroused, I eagerly awaited my entrées. The first to arrive was chow kueh teow, flat noodles stir fried with shrimp, squid, chives, bean sprouts, and egg. The noodles were doused too generously with peanut oil, leaving a slightly greasy residue in my mouth, but the dish was redeemed by succulent shrimp so tender you barely had to chew. Also pleasing was the contrast of soft egg to crunchy beansprout.

The chef's special mangga ayam, chicken, mango, and red pepper cooked in mango sauce, looked promising. The contents of the dish came heaped in a carved-out mango skin on a bed of shredded cabbage and carrot. Though the chicken was cooked to perfection and the mango was at its prime ripeness, both were undermined by a mediocre sauce of mango juice and ketchup.

The climax of the meal was the rendang daging, beef simmered in curry, coconut milk, chili sauce and lemongrass. The sauce is a triumph. The tang of the curry blends delightfully with the soothing coconut milk, while the chili and lemongrass add subtle richness. The pieces of beef come in a fried shell. Arriving alongside this basket of bliss are mixed vegetables tossed in a cooling viniagrette.

Try to restrain from eating that very last bite of your entrée so that your can cleanse your palette with some delicious and uniquely refreshing desserts. The rambutan is a red, fuzzy fruit whose shell you peel to find a sweet and juicy meat. To the Western tongue, it is sort of a cross between pineapple, grape, and melon.

The more adventurous dessert connoisseur must try the bu-bu-cha-cha (who could resist a name like that?). It is a mountain of coconut milk with diced taro, sweet potato, blackeye bean and tapioca under finely crushed ice, all of which one mixes together in a glass bowl. It sounds like a strange and daunting mixture of foods, but it is quite excellent. Gunung Tahan offers a daily selection of ice creams as well.

Sadly, for the penny-conscious college student, the quality of the food at Gunung Tahan is reflected in the prices. Appetizers range from $4 to 7 and entrées $10 to 15, but the portions are generous. We all deserve to pamper ourselves sometimes, and this is a perfect opportunity. The service is excellent, and there are ample vegetarian choices (a vast array of meatless rice and noodle dishes as well as several vegetable dishes). While the meal was not flawless, I rate Gunung Tahan as a wonderful remedy for the dining hall blues. One couple told me, "We come here all the time. We are regulars. We love the food and the service." It's certainly not hard to understand why.

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