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Multiply by X
By Ann Ritter
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| JULIA TIERNAN/YH |
| Is there anything more you could ask for on Valentine's Day than renovated XandO? |
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As schizoid as its half-moon, half-sun logo, the new XandO seeks to be even
more all-purpose than it was before it closed months ago for renovations. No
longer content to be a simple hybrid bar/coffeehouse, XandO has spent the past
few months mutating into an altogether new species of restaurant: the
bar/coffee/pizza/lunch joint.
The décor of the restaurant has changed somewhat, but the basic concept
remains the same. The new windows on the second floor are a very nice touch,
and the velvet curtains that separate the happy diners from the really
happy drinkers are downright fabulous.
The color scheme is still very much about deep primary colors, and the
lighting scheme is still heavily reliant on strangely-shaped translucent things
hanging from the ceiling. Little has changed as far as the sound system goes;
they were having an '80s revival when the place closed for renovations in
November and, three months later, Cutting Crew is still on the cutting edge.
The pizza, made by a crew of goat-eed men in black berets and turtlenecks on
the first floor, is pleasant and fairly cheap. The ingredients are all fresh
and prepared well, and the pizza is considerably lighter-tasting than anything
else in the Broadway area. As we all know far too well, the mark of an
extraordinary dining establishment in New Haven is that you don't feel as
though you need to lie down after eating the food. In that respect, XandO is a
fine little restaurant.
So, the pizza's pretty good and all, but really now, why can't we just have a
nice, simple, normal coffee shop to hang around in? The way the restaurant
stands now, the clock strikes eight o'clock, and then all of sudden there's
nowhere to go if you just want to kick it and procrastinate. I guess you could
go to Koffee?, but they've gotten into the unfortunate habit of hiring weird,
poetic, vaguely crusty folk musicians who enjoy playing the tambourine and
singing about all the wonderful girls they dated in high school.
You could venture to Naples, but then you'd have to deal with the jukebox
that, if left unattended, switches on to autopilot and alternates between "No
Woman No Cry" and "Break on Through" for pretty much the entire night. Or you
could go to Au Bon Pain, but if you spend more than half an hour under the
fluorescent lighting, it's a well-known fact that you might, as a result, go
totally blind in the process. Finally, there are all of the other prototypical
pizzerias that parade as diners on Broadway, but they get just plain bitchy if
you order a 90-cent cup of coffee and nothing else.
Simply put, it is our God-given right as overeducated, liberal arts brats to
have unlimited access to dimly lit, smoky hangouts at every hour of every
night. Unfortunately, the Administration's Broadway development committee
doesn't quite seem to hold the same opinion.
And so what we have is XandO, an establishment that aims to encompass the
whole of the Yale College experience in one mere corner storefront. As you eat
your pizza, sip your coffee, drink your beer, and listen to a recording of what
is essentially the soundtrack of the Safety Dance, you sort of have to wonder
about the validity of your existence as a Yale undergraduate. If they can stuff
all of the essential components of your attempt at a social life into one
relatively small building, can you really be living life to the ab-solute
fullest?
All that's left to do is put a keg in the bathroom--then they'll be able to
replace the hostess with a carnival caller and charge admission to what will by
that time have become a life-size diorama of college life. Compared to the
combination of pizza, hard liquor, and s'mores, it seems like a fairly logical
marketing strategy to me.
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