Don't bypass clogging up your 'Heart'

JULIA TIERNAN/YH Cornbread, fried chicken, and collard greens: a meal fit for Fuzzy Zoeller

Gecko's star may have dimmed among Yalies over the last year, but the corner it occupies, College and Crown, has been growing steadily brighter. This year saw the opening of the urbane Tibwin Grill and opulent Istanbul Café in storefronts along the once-sketchy Crown Street. The former offers high-end fare like seared ahi tuna and poached pears in a swank, understated setting; the latter has fried Turkish pastries, beaded cushions, and hookahs. Both fill a culinary niche largely neglected in New Haven, and both do it in style. Now the area is playing host to another classy venue for an underrepresented cuisine. Heart & Soul, which specializes in "Southern cuisine and jazz that warms your soul," opened its doors last month.

The building Heart & Soul occupies makes the weirdest architectural statement in the neighborhood. It used to house Elm Street Pizza, which has been defunct for as long as I can remember, and its retro '50s shape looks like a television producer's vision of a classic diner. The new owners have painted it a gaudy yellow, further heightening the kitsch appeal. I half-expected to see Jessie, Slater, Zack, and Kelly hunched over milkshakes when I walked in the door.

Instead, I stepped into a much dressier, more adult atmosphere. The restaurant's lights were low, its tablecloths were red, and the DJ was spinning smooth jazz and R&B. Most of the tables were empty, and the majority of the restaurant's few patrons were clustered around the bar. I ordered my food from an alarmingly muscular guy, who was busy pouring drinks for the assembled, and settled in for a look around. The dining room has a small stage dominated by a sound system. The bar is painted yellow to match the outside, and the restaurant's windows are a cloudy plate glass that heightens the feeling of intimacy. As the only white person in the room, I felt conspicuous--and also way underdressed in my sweatshirt and jeans. The customers at the bar were young, hip, and decked out for a night on the town. Two cell phones rang while I waited for my order.

The food proved well worth the wait. I'd requested the Vegetable Platter, an amalgam of four side dishes, and received hefty portions of honey-candied yams, hot and sweet cabbage, collard greens, and broccoli and cheese, along with a generous square of cornbread. Although the cornbread was a little dry, the rest of the dishes were succulent and delicious. The cabbage tasted rich and buttery, with a subtle, nutty flavor. The yams were sweet and spicy, and the broccoli was coated with enough cheddar cheese to give it some bite. The collard greens, my favorite, were dark and vinegary with just a few shreds of pork mixed in.

Despite the restau-rant's name, it does not exactly serve up heart-healthy fare--the vegetables had been cooked in plenty of butter. However, they tasted lighter than I expected, and the collard greens, unlike other versions I've tried, were not swimming in bacon grease. I wished that I had more of an appetite, because the dessert selection--including apple pie, banana pudding, and sweet potato pie--was tempting. The menu also features specialties like Catfish & Grits, Fried Chicken & Waffles, Oxtails, plenty of soup and salad choices, and burgers and fries. The restaurant even offers to fill special requests for customers looking for a dish not on the menu.

Heart & Soul is a welcome addition to Crown Street. The tasty cooking and elegant atmosphere warrant a visit, and the yams and greens border on addictive. The restaurant also features live DJs, bands, and even comedians at night. I plan on returning soon, with an emptier stomach and a dressier outfit.

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