Sahara serves up stylish shish kebabs, decor

Linda Ronstadt and Aaron Neville launched into their duet, "All I Need to Know," then Chris De Burgh followed with "Lady in Red." It seems that the owners of New Haven's newest eat-in/take-out Middle Eastern restaurant have developed the mistaken impression that all Americans adore cheesy '80s pop music. Although I felt like I was caught in a time warp, I was simply having dinner at Sahara, conveniently located at 170 Temple St. across from the Omni Hotel.

Aside from the fact that the soundtrack lulled me into a stupor, the dated tunes also worked to create a rift in the restaurant's atmosphere, contrasting exotic decoration with unmistakably American music. A narrow, deep space, Sahara boasts a lovingly renovated interior—warm orange walls and floor tiles give it the desert feel that the name suggests, while exposed brick and creative palm tree motifs add flair.

REBECCA/ROSENTHAL Walk like an Egyptian, eat like a sheik.

Authentic Middle Eastern kitsch abounds: small brass lamps parade along the tops of door jambs, gilded cushions dot the floors, and large urns filled with dried grasses sit on the tiles. A scant six tables are scattered around the dining area, generously spaced to give diners plenty of privacy to enjoy their meals.

The exotic atmosphere of the dining room begins to dissipate, however, in the middle of the restaurant. Sahara appears to be the successor of a pizza parlor, retaining the open counters where chefs prepare food in full view of the customers. Other details of the décor also clash with the exotic theme; most glaring are the hanging Tiffany-style lamps sporting grape and rose motifs. The eclecticism of the interior creates an atmospheric tension, with American battling Middle Eastern, cheesy clashing with classy, and fast food duking it out with fine dining.

In keeping with the décor, the food at Sahara bridges cultures and cuisines, offering up pizza, pasta, chicken wings, and french fries in addition to the expected selection of traditional Middle Eastern dishes. During our dining excursion, my roommate and I concentrated on the authentic dishes (figuring that pizza shops are almost more numerous than cars in the Haven).

Although not quite worthy of a Michelin Three- Star rating, the food at Sahara is tasty and well prepared. As the vegetarian member of our party, I ordered the Sahara Combo ($8.50), a generous platter of falafel, babaganoush, hummus, grape leaves, feta cheese, and salad. The meal was served on a large plate, arranged to please the eye even before my fork descended. The falafel stood out in this company of dishes, with the outside deep-fried to crispy perfection and the inside remaining pleasantly tender. The hummus was overly lemony, greeting the tongue with a tangy burst that soon yielded to a strong chickpea flavor. The babaganoush (an eggplant spread) would likewise have benefited from more delicate seasoning; also very lemony, it lacked the smoky, roasted flavor that makes good babaganoush a gustatory delight. The grape leaves, however, satisfied with a mild mixture of rice, tomato, mint, and chickpeas encased in a chewy wrapper. The garden salad disappointed as a lackluster mixture of iceberg lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and olives topped with a giant slab of feta cheese. In addition to the platter, I also sampled the stuffed veggie pie ($4.50), an enormous slice of double-crusted pizza overstuffed with vegetables and cheese. Served with a side of tomato sauce, the pie provided a delicious counterpart to the rest of the meal.

My roommate ventured into the meaty side of Sahara's offerings, ordering Sahara's Meat Combo ($10.95), a sampler of falafel, hummus, babaganoush, shish kebab, and salad. The shish kebab, well-seasoned and tasty chunks of meat, was her favorite dish, proving that Sahara appeals to carnivores and tofu-lovers alike.

A satisfying dinner came to a disappointing conclusion with dessert. The rice pudding ($2) was flavored excessively with rosewater (and served, strangely, in a plastic container complete with lid). The Lady Fingers ($1.50) looked like baklava rolled into cylinders. But the rich, moist, gooey confection that I anticipated turned out to be dry and tasteless. The Turkish coffee ($1.25) contained an intriguing mixture of spices; I think I detected hints of cardamom and anise, but my sleuthing was rudely interrupted by the sludge of coffee grounds that I encountered at the middle of the cup. I'll stick with my usual French Roast from Claire's.

Overall, the dinner pleased my palette, filled my stomach, and didn't break the bank. The service was friendly, if a little slow and light on the English. The biggest drawback of the restaurant was definitely its attempt to be hipper and trendier than its location and layout allow. The front of the restaurant is lined with glass-paned doors in New York bistro style, but while cafés in the Big Apple provide great views and people-watching, Sahara's doors open to nothing more exciting than the parking garage attached to the Omni Hotel. But if you direct your gaze to the décor and the tasty food, Sahara provides a charming little oasis of Middle Eastern exoticism in the midst of standard American urbanity

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